Oh Man!

Yves Saint Laurent Homme Video

It's all go for another round of men's fashion shows (a little earlier than usual). 42 designers will be marching their styles down the parisian catwalks - and one is sitting out.

Yves Saint Laurent Homme will be seen in the form of a video installation, imagined by Stefano Pilati and in collaboration with Sarah Chatfield and Chris Sweeney of the london production house « Colonel Blimp ». UK actor Simon Woods will camp the role of the protagonist and model.

UPDATE:
here is the video (thx to YOUTUBE)

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Par affection - Les Métiers d'Art

CHANEL Paris-Londres 6 december 2007

Repositioning the ready-to-wear collection up a level and catering to a local clientele, Chanel's Karl-of-all-media, makes his trades work for him.

Style.com : As Lagerfeld explained it, "There's a new clientele now, Russian, Middle Eastern, Chinese, South American, and they're young and they're all tiny—size 36, 38. They have no problem fitting into standard sizes." And many of them (thanks to Gordon Brown's favorable tax laws) happen to be discreetly domiciled in the U.K. capital, perchance on the lookout for something just a little more gorgeous to wear on London's now extremely dressed-up social circuit.

Exclusivity and creativity are the essence of this PARIS-LONDRES pre-collection. Inspired by the men that marked her life (and loves) Arthur (Boy) Capel or the Duke of Westminster spiced up with a touch of blues (Amy Winehouse-esque) , a pinch grande dame glam and a great big whallop of rock, this is one of the most iconic collections to hang soon in Chanel stores.

After Paris, in 2002 and 2003, Tokyo in 2004, New York in 2005 and Monte-Carlo en 2006 the London 2007 version of his "métiers d'art" collection is a showcase for PARAFFECTION haute couture ateliers (staff of 300 and 35 M € turnover in 2006).

PARAFFECTION (liberally translated means "for the love of") is a company created in 2002 by Chanel SA to house independant "satelite" atéliers d'art. 7 master craftsmenshops all preserved under one CC tiled roof. Long established suppliers to Chanel and many other fashion houses, who due to their hyper-niche products, and global delocalisation were doomed to hang their hat one day.

Saving them only for the love of savoir-faire? These companies still bill ca. 60% of their turnover to CHANEL. Only 60%!

All these workshops have the duty to function independantly and so, also supply the competition. They are encouraged and guided to find their own clientèle form new craftsmen, dust off the made-to-measure articles cluttering atelier shelves and start creating younger collections under their own banner (eg artistic director Eric Charles Donatien at Maison Lemarié and Goossens).

By saving the heritage of these ateliers d'art, Chanel is creating a laboratory for the future of (it's) luxury business.

Master Artisans:
LESAGE - specialist embroidery since (acquired in 2002)
DESRUES costume jewelry and button maker (acquired in 2002)
GUILLET - maker of fabric flowers since 1896 (acquired in 2006)
MAISON MICHEL millnery since 1936 (acquired in 2002- a great website underway by supergazol and a great mini documentary HERE)
MAISON LEMARIE feather-maker since 1880 (acquired in 1997)
ROBERT GOOSSENS gold- and silversmithing since 1960 (acquired in 2005)
MASSARO boot-making since 1947 (acquired in 2005)

Some people you just can't buy - Mme Pouzieux is passementière and supplies the most intricate braidings available in haute couture - her art, by french legislation, only exists as a mechanised process for home furnishings. She has never been able to declare her craft and so her official trade is breeding horses.

For further reading:
ENTREPRISES DU PATRIMOINE VIVANT

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High Heels Away!

After seeing models plummet from 14cm heels onto designer catwalks ending up nose to toe with the world's frontseat fashionistas (well known for their compassion) and definitely not wanting to emulate that trend, here are a couple of tips I have found browsing the web.

According to the Dr Scholl sounding "Society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists" the key is the "G" factor - actually 4 of them - Glamour, Glide, Guide and Give.(?!)
Glamour- "head in the clouds" height, yes, but only on special occasions - especially if you can lean on your date. If not, keep him within falling distance.
Glide- NO RUNNING. Adopt the diva attitude, raise an eyebrow at all those people rushing about below (yes you are wearing your latest purchase-12cm of added height not counting the platform)
Guide- Let yourself be guided into buying the right size - even if it is not available in your favourite powder/lilac/gold shade. High Heels are an implulse buy, just like candy. Be strong enough to say no to a shoe that does not fit.
Give- your feet a little TLC before and after strutting.

Now that you have mastered that - Samba away ( I have always found better balance when listening to music on my i-pod I wish I could dance to)

Some more sites about looking devine:
Leg Work a work out video (yes, very Jane Fonda) for your stilettos
"Heels you can fly in" by Cole Haan's in association with Nike not really trendsetters but high heel "taxi to plane" designed.

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VIDEO - Paris S/S 2007

Catwalks in Paris - Style.com

Christian Dior
Balenciaga - Nicolas Ghesquière

Miu Miu

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Shall We dance? Let's make believe

2nd October 2006
Viktor&Rolf put on one one of the best shows at the Carousel du Louvre this week (creatively as well as entertainment wise) with their ballroom dancing inspired défilé.
And why wouldn't it be? Viktor&Rolf's self derisional world (their website motto : "because we're worth it") takes the sombre out of expert and leaves the elegant in trendy. Their topsy-turvy upside down store reflects their joie de vivre and amusement of creativity. Proof is, you can be a star and still be star-struck.
The show had to be great! And it was. VIDEO - Viktor&Rolf

The excellent Rufus Wainwright played live. The magic was complete.
The event was also the occasion to launch the new ANTIDOTE (L'Oréal) first men's fragrance.

From a business point of view, for the moment Dutch duo Mr&Mr Horsting and Snoeren don't expect massive sales of their creations.
According to WWD (sept 13th) : "Diesel owner Renzo Rosso is said to have another quirky design house in his sights: Viktor & Rolf.The fashion maverick — who already owns Martin Margiela and produces the Dsquared line, as well as his denim giant Diesel — is in negotiations with Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren about a possible deal, which could involve buying all or part of their company, according to sources. Talks are said to be at an advanced stage, although a final price has yet to be agreed upon."

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Yves Saint Laurent - Now and then

October 5th 2006 S/S 2007 by Stefano Pilati
Collection inspired by violets, which to the Greeks symbolized modesty, humility, and virginity- violets that were trampled by runway models...
M.Pilati has a sense of humour.

M. Yves Saint Laurent
Career make or break collection 1962 (in french)

Betty Catroux talks about life with Yves Saint Laurent. Black leather, cocaine, sex, and poetry in the 1970s!.. la poésie du "louche". (interview in french)

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Lara Croft's answer to skinny taciturn models

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Paris - Uninspired? No! Intellectual.

Reuters 8th October 2006:

"This season the designers seemed to have sales in mind with a focus on accessories that create healthy profit margins.

At Chanel models were draped with belts, bangles and bags, while Lacroix's show targeted a new younger clientele with skimpy swimsuits and short hemlines. Designer Karl Lagerfeld has even brought out a CD of his favorite music.

Nearly every model sent out by American designer Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton -- the jewel in the crown of LVMH -- was carrying a handbag, the label's best known product.
LVMH president Bernard Arnault, who this week unveiled plans for a futuristic museum in Paris to promote the heritage of his label and celebrate creativity, said designers should be both creative and commercial.
"That's what we're trying to do and when a collection works well, it's because it's creative," he told Reuters.
His company also owns the Celine and Givenchy labels that showed in Paris this week. Net profits rose to 817 million euros in the first six months of the year and sales of leather goods rose 46 percent in July and August.

But several fashion critics found the week's shows provided little inspiration.
"I think we've seen the struggle of big houses ... when they don't have the right designer at the helm," said Hilary Alexander, fashion director at the Daily Telegraph. "You tend to get either a pile of boring merchandise just to sell handbags or ... collections which are totally incomprehensible."

Vanity Fair Fashion Director Michael Roberts said there were "Too many uninspiring clothes ... I think you can be commercial and still come out with something inspired."
"I think this is really a particularly off season for Paris. Hopefully next year it will be on again otherwise we'll have a problem," he added. "

Robert Burke, head of the luxury consulting firm Robert Burke Associates, said the minimalist trend required skillful presentation on the part of retailers.
"It's a more intellectual sale, as opposed to an impulsive sale. It's all in how it's displayed, how it's merchandised, how it's shown in the windows," he told the AP.
"It's always a balance of making sure that you don't have too much of a sea of black in your store, that you still have color and you still have some embellishment, because while the fashion world moves very fast, sometimes the consumer doesn't move as fast."

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Aussie in Paris

The french have their famous boisterous "cocorico"! , in Australia we have a more low key, yet meaningful "good-on-ya, mate"!

According to the Sydney Morning Herald:

In a schedule of shows groaning with French luxury labels led by a new generation of hired hands who are happy to take the big consulting money and run, the Paris-based Australian Martin Grant stood out yesterday.
Eighteen months after turning down the creative directorship of the French luxury label Celine, Grant showed on the official schedule for the first time.
The big turn-up for his show confirmed that Grant's star is on the rise. Impressive pieces included the sporty marled silk jersey sack and tent dresses and silk chiffon evening wear series in scarlet red and near fluorescent lime green with trompe l'oeil fused pleating effect.

See Fashionshow

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VIDEO - Best of Milan Fashion Summer 2007

Vogue/ Style.com (english)


Alberta Ferretti

Prada

Burburry Prorsum

Bottega Veneta

Marni

Raf Simons for Jil Sander

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Let the shows begin! - Paris SS 2007

The trendies have arrived....
Autumn and spring their migration patterns remain constant. London, New York, Milan.... Paris.
(With a halt in Madrid for the well fed part of the flock)

So here is the roster for the shows - official and not so much - Paris 1st-8th of October 2006

The opening bell echos "statement" in the Carrousel du Louvre with Chinese fashion house Jefen - "made in China" is out, welcome to the "Création Chinoise"

The week will be clotured by Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu. The venue still remains a mystery for those without invitation. After toying with the idea of the locker rooms of the Stade de France, us common mortals will have to wait until the 8th to find out. Last season her show was showcased in the mythical, albeit slightly stuffy La Pérouse restaurant. As per usual Miuccia's panache turned this setting into an intimate, quircky and very sexy backdrop to her first Paris show.

Just for the fun of it, let's see what a show was 50 years ago...
(Jacques Fath Spring of 1956 collection)

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