Vionnet - Ma madeleine à moi

One of the first fashion houses I started working for in '93 was Jil Sander. It was a fabulous experience and probably the reason why I continued in this line of work.
Jil Sander's Avenue Montaigne store was located in the former "hotel particulier" of pioneer fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet (50, ave Montaigne). Jil Sander whispered that the location wasn't a coincidence, she shared Ms Vionnet's vision of elegance and cut. Just after inaugurating the store a very discreet grayhaired lady timidly entered and asked if she could visit. "I used to work here" she announced proudly, then she started to show us where the atelier had been, where the Hispano Suizas parked. She had been a "petite main" in Madeleine Vionnet's workshop. Sometimes whilst working in the upper storeys I could still feel the presence of this grande dame of couture.

The early 1900's symbolised the beginning of feminism. Women began to make it. In the fashion world there were Jeanne Lanvin (single mum and entrepeneur) and Madeleine Vionnet. Ms Vionnet created her fashion house in 1912, although success arrived after the first World War. Her simple elegant styles made all ornementation on garments previously favoured by contemporary Poiret, obsolete. Her invention of the "bias" (or cross) cut and the drapé reinvented couture completely. Her abolition of the corset liberated women. All in all she was a feisty lady, capable of leaving man and house to start over in another country. Well ahead of her times she had a deep social integrity ( her employees had advantages unheard of in those times - day care, health care and payed holidays). As a visionary business woman she quasi invented a system of copyright (her creations had serial numbers and were orned with her digital prints) and was one of the first to distribute Pret à Porter collections derived from haute couture.
Her last collection was in 1939. Her fashion house was up for sale at Druot in 1940. She spent the next and last 3 decades of her life on her other passions: nature and culture.
Of Madeleine Vionnet I will remember this quote:
"Il faut toujours se dépasser pour s'atteindre... Toujours lutter au fond, c'est passionnant"

The Vionnet trademark was bought in 1988 by the de Lummen family who have since been distributing it's frangrances (Madeleine Vionnet SA / Parfums Aubusson). Although there had been suggestions of bringing back the pret à porter in the 90's, my guess is that there hasn't been the oppertunity to enrole a designer who shared the same vision.

Now Vionnet is back on the fashion scene. Arnaud de Lummen, General Manager of the ressucitated fashion house announced this month (july 2006) the arrival of Sophia Kokosalaki as artistic director.

« Notre retour sur la scène de la mode ne sera pas une rétrospective du passé mais marquera notre volonté de perpétuer l’esprit visionnaire de Vionnet. Sophia, reconnue pour son travail sur la coupe et les matières, est sans doute l’unique créatrice contemporaine en parfaite symbiose avec l’héritage de la Maison et pleinement capable d’inventer son futur.»
(10 July 2006 Vogue)

Innovation and technical perfection are the main factors why there is a coherence between the artistic styles of these two women. I really am looking forward to Madeleine's revival. RdV spring/summer 2007 season.

Vionnet
Sophia Kokosalaki